Ever wondered what the difference is between an Oxford and a Brogue? If you've found yourself pondering this (perhaps while watching Kingsman?!) the answer is actually pretty simple! One is a type of shoe, the other is not a shoe at all! Oxfords are a type of shoe with closed laces. Brogue simply refers to the distinctive double stitched & punched holes pattern on any shoe.
So when harry Hart says 'Oxfords - not brogues' - he means Oxford style shoes, without the optional brogue pattern.
So that means Oxford shoes can also be Brogues!
The history of the Oxford begins in Scotland and Ireland, where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. They gained their name from the city's university students with whom they were all the rage in the 1800s. Since then this traditional men's style shoe has become synonymous with dapper dressing for formal, business & classy casual wear.
What distinguishes an Oxford is the 'closed lace' design of the shoe - in which the quarters, (sections where the lace holes are punctured) are sewn with their edges under the front part of the shoe (the vamp) creating a smoother, cleaner silhouette. A derby for instance, has these sections stitched directly onto the top of the vamp and is considered far more casual/country chic.
Shoes with ‘broguing’ which is the term used to describe the decorative perforations, edges and stitching on the leather, were traditionally considered more casual, although that is changing. Personally I love a women's brogue for smart outfits. And oxfords aren't just for men! Take a look at these stunning Evening Oxford shoes created by Alfred J. Cammeyer in 1891!
Evening Oxford shoes created by Alfred J. Cammeyer in 1891 - Photo Courtesy of The MET
